Cairo EgyptEgypt has a fascinating and well documented history stretching back five thousand years. The phaoronic era endured for twenty-seven centuries. Despite numerous incursions from Libyans, Ethiopians, Persians and Assyrians towards the end of this period, it was only the arrival of Alexander the Great in 341 BC that brought indigenous control to an end. Following Alexander’s death Egypt was ruled for the next three hundred years by a dynasty founded by one of his generals until the country became a Roman province in 30 BC. Egypt remained in the hands of the Constantinople-based Eastern Roman Empire until the arrival of Islam in 638 AD.

Cairo, Egypt’s present day capital, was founded by the Fatimid dynasty in 969 AD. Today, together with its twin city Giza on the western bank of the Nile, it has swollen to become a teaming metropolis of an estimated 28 million inhabitants. Such an immense non English-speaking conurbation can be a bit overwhelming. So if you are either pressed for time or wish to bypass the hassles of organising everything yourself, contacting a local tour agency can make a lot of sense.

On arrival at Cairo airport I was welcomed by Louis Malak of Captain Tours. After guiding me through the purchase of a US$15 entry visa, he reassuringly shepherded me through immigration and customs before escorting me to the nearby airport Novotel. A functional if uninspiring establishment, this hotel’s main drawback was the weakness of the centrally controlled air-conditioning in the bedrooms. Opening the window merely let in the noise from the planes not to mention the blasts from the largely empty hotel night club adjacent to the pool. In retrospect I wish I’d paid a little more and chosen the more upmarket Movenpick hotel next door. Or a delightfully extravagant alternative would have been the elegant Oberoi, one of the world’s grand old hotels and only a stone’s throw from the pyramids. Those on a budget, however, may well find the cheaper places centered around the main train station in central Cairo less painful on their pocket.

The ancients liked to live on the eastern bank of the Nile where the sun rises and bury their dead on the western bank where it sets. So it is in Giza where the great pyramids are to be found. I headed for these “must see” attractions on my first morning. To my surprise the trip led by guide Nissreen Makram was laid on especially for me, the only customer that day. What service! The drive out to the pyramids was something of a revelation. At one point we went through what appeared to be a rather grand neighbourhood of beautiful mini villas. Nissreen informed me that these were in fact mausoleums. We were passing through the City of the Dead. I couldn’t help reflecting that the deceased were accommodated in considerably more style than many of the living.

Giza has sprawled outward to such an extent that it has encroached to within a few hundred meters of the pyramids themselves. One minute you are driving through a heavily-built up urban area, the next some of the great wonders of the ancient world rise up before you. There are actually three pyramids at Giza, those of Cheops and his son Chepren dating from the 26th century BC and the less impressive monument to Mycerinus. Only the pyramid of Cheops is open to the public. Contrary to what I imagined, the pyramid was not hollow on the inside. Instead a steep and narrow, sweltering, claustrophobic passageway leads ever upwards to a burial room at the top. A considerable measure of either youth or fitness is needed for the climb. Weigh up whether you really wish to put yourself through such punishment, particularly when there is absolutely nothing to see either in the undecorated passageway or in the long since plundered burial room itself.

In front of the pyramids lies the Sphinx, 50 meters long and 22 high. Known in Arabic as Abu Al-Hol or father of terror, the unfortunate feline had its nose blasted off by a French cannon ball in an attempt by Napoleon in 1798 to show the recently conquered Egyptians who was boss. At night, the Sphinx serves as the centrepiece for a laser sound and light show. A once in a lifetime experience which can be sampled in this area is a camel ride. The ride itself is actually quite pleasant, almost serene. But getting up and coming down again afterward is as alarming as you might expect. Avoid the camel dealers immediately in front of the pyramids. For a better deal try those in the nearest urban street to the left of the Sphinx.

To view the treasures of ancient Egypt, undoubtedly the best place to head for is the Egyptian Museum back in Cairo itself. It is here that the fabulous riches taken from Tutankhamun’s tomb including the boy king’s golden mask are on display.

For over three centuries until the arrival of the invading Muslim Arabs in 638 AD, Egypt was a Christian country. But the Egyptian form of Coptic Christianity which holds that Christ was exclusively divine (not both divine and human) was decried as heretical by both Rome and the mainstream Orthodox church. Despite condemnation then conquest, the Coptic church has survived to the present. Today, however, Copts are estimated to make up a mere 13% of the population of Egypt. In Cairo the community is centered on the old city, with Al-Muallaqa or The Hanging Church being their principal place of worship. During their flight from King Herod’s slaughter of newborn children, the Holy Family are said to have rested at the site of the present day church of St Sergius.

It is of course, Islam, now the state religion, which has dominated Egyptian life for almost fourteen centuries and this has left its mark on Cairo’s architecture. Saladin, scourge of the Crusaders, began construction of the Citadel in 1176. And the mosque of Mohammed Ali built by and named after a 19th century ruler dominates the skyline of Islamic Cairo. Just north lies the Ar-Rifa’i mosque, final resting place of the last Shah of Iran. Also worth a visit is the Museum of Islamic Art which houses an impressive collection of wood carvings, tapestries, manuscripts, glassware and weapons.

Cairo is also home to the world’s oldest university, Al-Azhar, built in 969 A.D. only a year after the founding of the city itself. Nearby you will find the Al-Ghouriyya mausoleum complex, site of mystical Sufi dancing performances held at eight o’ clock every Wednesday and Saturday evening.

This area is also the location of both the Sharia al-Muizz li-Din Allah market and the maze of souqs that is Khan al-Khalili, a great place in which to buy bargain souvenirs to round off your trip. Popular purchases include gold and silver jewelry made to a design of your choice, cartouches with your name or that of a friend spelt out in hieroglyphics, cotton clothing and papyrus prints. Returning home, you should manage to get any of these through Customs without too much trouble. Unless of course you try to bring home a Mummy!